On the nose, the initial notes of fresh almonds and grapefruit gradually lead into cashew nuts and spices complemented by lightly toasted brioche.
In the mouth, the sensation is one of entering a wave: a satiny texture curls and unfurls on the palate, embracing and caressing it. An instant of weightlessness… matter vanishes, the finish vibrates, the taste buds are aroused by a controlled ardor. The persistence is remarkable, with just the slightest undertone of tartness (citrus zest and buds).
Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as precise or elegant as the 1996. Still, of the two vintages, this is the one I would prefer to drink over the next five or years or so.
— Josh Raynolds
93/100 (November 2005)
The 1998 Vintage is proving to be a huge surprise as this Vintage at the time of release was not very promising or considered to be one of the better Vintages.
Having tasted together with the 1996 I can honestly say that the 1998 is aging excellently and has proven again that with good storage and time even a relatively modest Vintages can develop into something to be proud of.
A bright and smooth vintage at the peak of its drinking window, pear, apple, citrus, orange/lemon are all present while enjoying the first few zips. Paired with A Lobster Salad and French Oysters is simply perfect. The dessert pairing was Strawberries and cream.
96/100 (January 2016)